I've been dreaming of this hack for several years, ever since I first saw the iconic 'The Vampire's Wife' Falconetti dress in 2019. When I made a summer version of the Nina Lee Park Lane dress in 2021 I knew it was the perfect pattern, and when I spotted this deadstock corduroy (rosewood stretch cotton microcord) at The New Craft House a couple of months ago I knew it was just what I was looking for. I really enjoyed taking my time to work on this dress, and delighted with how it turned out!
Fitting
I used the bodice pieces which I had adjusted in 2021 for my summer version of the Park Lane, full details of the fit adjustments including narrow shoulder, lengthening and grading out from a 14 to a 16 at the waist are on my previous Park Lane post here . This time I used the original mid-length sleeve pattern piece, but tapered the width so that it was tighter at my elbow. I also used the collar neckline instead of the round neck, and am so glad I did! Even though the Falconetti has a round neck, I think the collar really suits this version.
Hacks
There were two hacks I wanted to make to this version: firstly the iconic pleated ruffle at the elbow and secondly the gathered bottom ruffle which I added to my last Park Lane and absolutely loved. I should say that both methods are self-taught and there may well be much simpler ways of doing both...I'm definitely not a pro and my pattern hacking is very much based on trial and error!
Bottom gathered ruffle
1. Straighten the bottom hem pattern piece to remove the curved edge.
2. Measure the width of the bottom hem, and mutliply this by 1.5 to calculate the length needed for the bottom ruffle. I then created a pattern piece (not necessary but I wanted to have one so I wouldn't have to re-measure every time I make a new Park Lane - I foresee many!) Final measurements for the new pattern piece were 8" deep and 27.5" long (straightened bottom hem x 1.5 / 2).
3. Join the two cut pieces at the short edges to create a large circle. Finish the short edges.
4. Mark the mid-points at the front and back of the top edge of the ruffle piece and the bottom edge of the skirt.
5. Run two rows of gathering stitches along the top edge of the ruffle piece. Pin the ruffle to the skirt matching your centre front, centre back and side seams to ensure it is evenly distributed.
6. Pull on the ends of the gathering stitches until the gathered ruffle fits the bottom edge of the skirt. Tie the loose ends of the gathering stitches to keep the gathers in place.
7. Attach the ruffle to the skirt sewing between the two rows of gathering stitches. Finish the raw edges.
8. Remove the gathering stitches and hem the bottom of the ruffle as per the pattern instructions.
Elbow pleated ruffle
1. Measure the circumference of the sleeve at the elbow, and cut a strip of fabric twice that length and 4" deep.
2. Mark along the long edge of the fabric piece with dots at 1" intervals to mark the folds of the pleats.
3. Narrow hem the bottom edge by sewing a straight line at 2/8" to use as a guide. Fold and press at that line. Fold and press over again and edge stitch in place.
4. Form the pleats by folding every second dot back over the first, so pairs of dots are face to face. Pin in place.
5. Baste the pleats in place (it is easier if you sew with the folds facing away from you) and press really well using as much steam as you can.
6. I added an optional vertical line of stitching within the seam allowance to secure the pleats in place. Not sure if this is necessary!
7. Pin the pleated strip to the bottom edge of the sleeve to check for size, trim any excess and join and finish the two short ends to form a circle.
8. Attach to the sleeve with a 5/8" seam allowance, and finish the raw edges. Press the seam allowances up towards the sleeve.
And that's it! I love this dress. It has the feel of The Vampire's Wife style that I love, but also has my own unique stamp. The Nina Lee Park Lane is so versatile and an absolute classic - it really is the pattern that keeps on giving. What's your favourite Park Lane hack? Let me know in the comments!
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